A TV stand that is too small leaves your screen perched precariously with the legs hanging off each end; one that is too big swamps the wall and dwarfs everything around it. Getting the width and height right is the difference between a media unit that looks deliberately designed and one that looks like an afterthought. This guide walks you through measuring your screen, sizing the stand to suit it, setting the perfect viewing height, and choosing the proportions that flatter your room — all in real centimetres, with the maths done for you.
1. Measure your TV the right way
Television sizes are quoted as a diagonal measurement in inches — a “55-inch TV” is 55 inches corner to corner across the screen, not side to side. That figure tells you almost nothing useful about how much shelf you need, because what matters for a stand is the width of the set including its bezel and feet. Always work from the actual external dimensions on the manufacturer’s spec sheet, or measure the set yourself with a tape.
As a rough translation, a modern slim-bezel TV is usually around 87% as wide as its diagonal. So a 43-inch screen spans roughly 96cm wide, a 50-inch around 112cm, a 55-inch around 123cm, and a 65-inch around 145cm. Larger 75-inch sets push past 167cm. These are guides, not gospel — older sets with chunkier surrounds run wider — so confirm against your own model before you buy.
2. The width rule: stand wider than the screen
The single most reliable rule of thumb is that your TV stand should be wider than your television — ideally by a comfortable margin. We recommend the unit be at least as wide as the screen, and for the best-looking result, around 15 to 30cm wider on each side. That overhang frames the set, stops it looking like it is about to topple, and gives you surface space for a soundbar, a plant or a pair of speakers.
To make the maths painless, here is how common screen sizes map to a sensible minimum stand width:
| TV size | Approx. screen width | Recommended stand width |
|---|---|---|
| 32″ | ~71cm | 90cm or wider |
| 43″ | ~96cm | 110–120cm |
| 50″ | ~112cm | 130–140cm |
| 55″ | ~123cm | 140–160cm |
| 65″ | ~145cm | 160–180cm |
| 75″ | ~167cm | 180–200cm |
If you are torn between two sizes, size up rather than down. A slightly generous unit reads as intentional and gives you breathing room to upgrade to a bigger screen later; a unit that exactly matches the TV width can look cramped the moment you add a soundbar in front of it. For a fuller look at unit styles and storage formats, our companion guide on how to choose a TV unit goes deeper on cabinet types.
3. Viewing height: where the screen should sit
Comfort comes down to one principle: the centre of the screen should sit at or just below your eye level when you are seated. Crane your neck up at a wall-mounted set for two hours and you will feel it the next morning. For most people relaxing on a sofa, seated eye level falls somewhere between 100 and 120cm from the floor.
That means the centre of the TV wants to land in roughly that 100–120cm band. To work out where the stand surface should be, take your target screen-centre height and subtract half the height of the TV. A 55-inch set is around 71cm tall, so its centre sits 35–36cm above wherever it stands. If you want the screen centred at 110cm, the top of the stand should be around 74cm — though in practice most freestanding units place the screen base lower, which is perfectly comfortable for casual viewing.
4. Matching stand height to your sofa
Freestanding TV units typically range from about 40cm to 60cm tall. The right one for you depends almost entirely on how low your seating is. Measure from the floor to your own eye level while sitting on your sofa — not standing — and pick a stand height that puts the screen centre near that line.
- Low-slung modern sofas (seat height around 40–45cm) pair well with a lower unit of 40–45cm, keeping the screen comfortably in view.
- Standard sofas (seat height 45–50cm) suit a mid-height stand of around 45–55cm.
- Higher, firmer seating or snug rooms where you sit more upright can take a taller 55–60cm unit without strain.
If you are still choosing your seating, our guide to choosing a sofa covers seat heights and depths in detail, and it is worth deciding the two together so the screen and the seat line up. The goal is a relaxed, level gaze — neither chin tucked down nor neck tilted back.
5. If your TV is wall-mounted
Wall-mounting changes the job of the stand from “hold the TV” to “hold everything else and anchor the wall visually”. You still want a unit beneath the screen for your console, set-top box, soundbar and cables — and for proportion, that unit should still be wider than the TV above it. A floating media unit with the TV mounted dead-centre above looks balanced; a narrow cabinet under a wide screen looks top-heavy.
For mounting height, the same eye-level principle applies: aim for the screen centre at 100–120cm from the floor for seated viewing. A handy starting point for a 55–65inch set is to position the bottom edge of the TV roughly 25–30cm above the top of the media unit, which leaves room for a soundbar and stops the screen and cabinet merging into one block. Always check the bracket is rated for your TV’s weight and that you are fixing into masonry or studs, not just plasterboard.
6. Depth, weight and cable clearance
Width gets all the attention, but depth and weight matter just as much for a unit that works day to day. Check the depth of your TV’s feet or pedestal base — some pedestals are surprisingly deep — and make sure the stand’s top surface is at least as deep, ideally with a few centimetres to spare so the set is not balanced on the front lip. A top depth of 38–45cm comfortably handles most pedestal-style sets.
Equally, confirm the unit’s stated maximum load. Larger televisions are lighter than they used to be, but a 65-inch set plus a soundbar and a games console still adds up, so look for a clearly stated weight rating. Finally, think about cables: units with open backs, cut-out cable ports or a rear channel keep leads tidy and let boxes breathe. If your kit runs hot, prioritise ventilation and avoid fully enclosed cabinets without airflow gaps.
7. Proportion: suiting the stand to the room
A stand that looks perfect in the showroom can feel wrong at home if it ignores the wall it lives on. A useful designer ratio is to let the media unit fill roughly two-thirds of the wall or alcove it sits within — long enough to feel grounded, short enough to leave a margin of wall on each side. A 200cm unit on a 3-metre wall reads beautifully; the same unit crammed into a 220cm alcove looks wedged in.
In compact rooms, a lower, longer unit can actually make the space feel wider and calmer than a tall, boxy cabinet — a trick we explore further in our small living room furniture ideas. In larger, open-plan spaces, a substantial unit with closed storage anchors the seating zone and stops the TV floating awkwardly. Always measure the alcove width, including any skirting or radiator pipes, before you commit.
Sightlines matter too: walk the route you will actually take through the room and make sure the unit’s corners are not in a knee’s path. If the unit will be visible from a dining or kitchen area, choose a finish that ties in with your other living room furniture so it reads as one cohesive scheme rather than a stray box.
8. Storage, style and finishing touches
Once the dimensions are settled, storage format is the next decision. Open shelving suits minimal setups and keeps games consoles within easy reach of the infrared sensor; closed cupboards and drawers hide clutter and DVDs; a mix of both is the most versatile. Think about how much you need to stow — a household with a soundbar, two consoles and a streaming box needs more than someone with a single set-top box.
For a coordinated look, echo the material and tone of your nearby pieces. A unit that shares the wood tone or leg style of your coffee table or sideboard instantly looks more considered. Matt finishes hide fingerprints and dust better than high-gloss; oak and walnut tones add warmth, while greys and blacks recede and let the screen take centre stage.
- Cable management — look for rear cut-outs and an open or vented back.
- Childproofing — anti-tip straps and soft-close doors are worth seeking out with little ones about.
- Future-proofing — buy a touch wider than today’s TV so an upgrade does not mean a new unit too.
9. Buying with confidence
Choosing the right size is far easier when you can take your time, and every Elystra Living order is designed to make that simple. We offer fast, tracked delivery so your new unit arrives quickly, and a 30-day returns promise so you can be sure it fits your room and suits your screen once it is in place. If anything is not quite right, sending it back is straightforward.
You can also spread the cost with Klarna in interest-free instalments, so a quality media unit need not arrive all at once on the bill. Browse the full range of TV and media units to find the width, height and finish that match your television and your living room — and measure your alcove before you order so you can buy with total confidence.
Frequently asked questions
How much wider than my TV should the stand be?
Aim for a stand that is at least as wide as your television, and ideally 15 to 30cm wider on each side. For a 55-inch set (around 123cm wide), a unit of 140–160cm looks balanced and leaves room for a soundbar or speakers.
What size TV stand do I need for a 65-inch TV?
A 65-inch screen is roughly 145cm wide, so choose a stand of around 160–180cm. That gives a comfortable overhang on each side, room for accessories, and a more balanced, deliberate look than a unit that exactly matches the screen width.
How high should a TV stand be?
The screen centre should sit at or just below your seated eye level, usually 100–120cm from the floor. Most freestanding units are 40–60cm tall; lower sofas pair with lower stands, while more upright seating suits a taller unit.
Can a TV be wider than its stand?
It is best avoided. A TV wider than its stand looks unstable and risks the feet overhanging the edge, which is unsafe. Always choose a unit at least as wide as the screen, and check the distance between the TV’s feet so they land fully on the top surface.
How do I work out my TV’s actual width?
The inch figure is the diagonal, not the width. As a guide, multiply the diagonal by about 0.87 for a slim-bezel set — or simply check the manufacturer’s spec sheet, which lists the exact width including the bezel and feet. Measuring the set yourself is the surest method.
What height should I mount a wall TV above the unit?
Position the screen centre at 100–120cm from the floor for seated viewing. For most 55–65inch sets that means the bottom edge sits about 25–30cm above the top of the media unit, leaving a 5–8cm gap so a soundbar fits without blocking the screen.
How deep should a TV stand be?
The top should be at least as deep as your TV’s feet or pedestal, ideally with a few centimetres to spare. A surface depth of 38–45cm comfortably supports most pedestal-style sets and keeps the television from balancing on the front lip.
Should the TV unit match my other living room furniture?
Coordinating helps. Echoing the wood tone or leg style of your coffee table or sideboard makes the room feel cohesive rather than a collection of stray pieces. You do not need an exact match — a shared finish or colour family is enough to tie the scheme together.
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